Saturday, December 11, 2010

punk rock Victorian childrens ruffled skirt

This little girls dress was my inspiration for this design.



punk rock version of the Victorian children's skirt

I have no idea what the fabric is. Some weird satin that I preshrunk, purposely, because I always PRESHRINK, and I like to be surprised by the fabric after washing it to see what happens to it. 

I prefer the more intense textures of many dryclean only fabrics after machine washing them 0.o call me crazy. lol They are so unique.





Here are a few steps to illustrate adding ruffles to a simple a line skirt:


Adding ruffles to the skirt:


Here I have begun to pin the 1st layer of ruffles to the skirt 1/4 section at a time. I describe this in detail in my post here.

After you make your division marks on the skirt and the ruffles you will want to provide excess thread for gathering when sewing your basting stitches onto your ruffle fabric between every section. You don't want to make one long straight stitch for gathering ruffles, it will break and unravel all your ruffles. So smaller sections make it easier to gather ruffles with out thread breakage.
Here you can see I am gradually pulling the excess string I left when applying basting stitch, for those of you who have yet to make ruffles by hand patience is key!  Go slow and gently, if you pull hard the thread may break and you will have to baste stitch again. ;)

Stitching on the ruffles after hand-basting the finished ruffles onto the skirt with white thread.  I think ruffles are more flattering added at the hip line rather than just below the navel.




Trim details:

Added bias tape trim to cover where ruffles are stitched onto skirt and made bias tape trim with leftover fabric to make the bias tape trim fancier.



Waistband improv:

Here you can see I've stitched two pieces of single fold bias tape to make it wide enough for a waist band. You can just buy double fold bias tape for this, I didn't have it on hand and used this method instead.


Here you can see the finished side of my bias tape waist band and the under side. You will want to iron flat the edges that will be stitched together and then iron them back to their previously folded state after stitching together as you see here.
I am adding the bias tape waistband here.  I finish off the waist band by leaving one side 2 inches longer than the other, fold half under and finish tab,  and stitching in a hook and eye to fasten above the zipper.

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