Victorian Nonsense

latest background image for download

2012-02-10T14:37:00.000-08:00

reworked this old woodcut in Photoshop here is a copy for those who would like it: just right click on image and select 'save image as'

Steampunk Worlds Fair

2012-02-10T14:21:00.000-08:00

Calling All VictoriAnna's and SteampunkSammy's!

Come One Come All to have a Ball!

Dance or cajole you'll have your share...

At the one and only Steampunk Worlds Fair!


steampunkworldsfair.com

Excerpt from main page:

steampunkworldsfair.com

Dahlia scarf hoody and beaded bag

2012-01-16T13:25:00.000-08:00

These prototypes are gifts for my friend Jen, another creative mastermind.

I used the tutorials found here for the dahlia and here for the scoody [scarf hoody]

She (BobWilson123) has a huge library of great tutorials for all levels.

free ebooks BEETONS BOOK OF NEEDLEWORK 1870

2012-01-12T06:32:00.000-08:00

http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/15147

Speaking of Aesthetic Dress look at this!

2012-01-08T00:37:00.000-08:00

They are restoring this dress worn by Ellen Terry [role of Lady Macbeth at London’s Lyceum Theatre in 1888] immortalized in this John Singer Sargent portrait , http://www.ecouterre.com/victorian-era-dress-made-from-1000-beetle-wings-restored-for-50000/

Pearl bracelet design

2012-01-08T00:28:00.000-08:00

I recently made this as a gift for my stepmother for Xmas. Fresh water pearls and 24k clasp and 24k 3 tier bead.

I really dont think this design is Victorian per se, I was inspired by ancient Roman and Greek jewelry I have been looking at so perhaps this would appeal to an Victorian Aesthete instead.

SEED BEAD PURSE UPDATE

2012-01-07T23:58:00.000-08:00

This technique is quite time consuming but well worth the result. It's really my first attempt with such tiny beads. So pretty though. This is with a 1.5 crochet needle, rocaille seed beads and cotton crochet thread.

The design I have in mind is not the 'miser coin purse' but more like a small hand bag with a draw string, we will see. I like to improvise as I go and let the project surprise me when I am done.

This was my inspiration,
http://www.somewhereintime.tv/antiques/miser.html

http://www.jewelscollectingdust.com/cutsteel.htm

http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/80095681

Still working at it! Here is the latest on feb 10th:

Victorian Microsoft Word Templates for a Menu & Exercise Journal

2011-08-20T22:04:00.000-07:00

I just made these to keep track of menus and exercise information thought I would pass them out...

http://www.mediafire.com/?znse0uu1nck7j26

http://www.mediafire.com/?mskpekjm77hy52k

Just click the link above to download free from Mediafiire

Victorian Ferndale, Ca

2011-08-04T13:13:00.000-07:00

Went to Golden Gait Merchantile, they have a cute little museum and loads of affordable antiques and modern day items that are still made the same way today, ie lanterns, hats, candy etc...

Victorian beaded bags and purses

2011-07-23T22:57:00.000-07:00

So I've decided to finally try doing a small purse in seed beads and crochet thread. I am sans a bead spinner for the present but wanted to get started any way.. it is ideal to thread seed beads this way but that's if you are working with finer fiber/thread.

http://www.nannysattik.net/vintagefashions.htm

http://www.carters.com.au/index.cfm/item/33441-victorian-beaded-misers-purse/ beaded miser coin purse on sale

http://andrewhopkinsart.blogspot.com/2010/11/todays-purchases.html metallic beaded purse

Apron & Skirt

2011-04-16T03:57:00.000-07:00

I designed this over skirt with apron attached.

Here you can see that the skirt is attached to the waist and then covered with double fold bias tape. I use the extra wide tape for a bold characteristic in the trimming detail. I use a very simple A-line skirt pattern and discard the waistband in favor of the bias tape waistband you see here.

Here is the entire skirt front.

Here is the entire skirt back, the zipper is also hidden behind the bias tape which is added over all seams, a nod to my rivet head past ;)

Beading with Cat "n_n" , wide beaded collar

2011-04-01T05:57:00.000-07:00

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Just finished this tutorial with my cat "Pudding" the sleepy Kitty, LOL for a wide beaded collar

Extra long necklace design inspired by Victorian Mourning Jewelry

2011-03-26T20:07:00.001-07:00

While some 

While some may not see this design as properly Victorian, if you study photos of Victorian Aesthetic fashion there are a few examples of incredibly long necklaces worn at the time. See this link http://doloresmonet.hubpages.com/hub/FashionsofTheAestheticMovementACultofBeautyandVictorianCounterculture

Beaded collar, easy beginners pattern

2011-03-26T05:19:00.000-07:00

Just finished this easy to do beaded collar.

My tutorial is closed caption for the hearing impaired.

Visit this link to watch my tutorial on Youtube

Civil War Era Historian Blog

2011-03-23T09:53:00.000-07:00

http://civilianwartime.wordpress.com/

TC Beads! & Seed bead bracelet and choker

2011-03-19T23:59:00.000-07:00

Have been pouring over TC Beads tutorials. She has really great ones. You can actually see what she is doing with these tiny little beads, unlike 60% of the rest of the tutes on you-tube, I find. ;)
This is the link to her channel: tsummerlee

I watched this video by TC Beads to make this bracelet:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fo3AhvAMucs
This bracelet is two strips of chevron , without the fringe [is it still considered Chevron without fringe? reading..... yes, yes it is. ], connected together on the side with two beads on the arc rather than three on the arc.

Now working on a necklace for the bracelet, but I made a small alteration to the chevron by using three beads on both arcs so that is does not have a curvature on one side.

Here's my messy tutorial for this stitch ;) Click to enlarge:

This is the finished choker I made for the bracelet:

You can see how I attached the two strips of chevron stitches by adding one green bead between each of the middle beads on the arcs.

Victorian Era Handbags crochet thread and glass beads

2011-03-12T06:51:00.000-08:00

I did not use a pattern I free-styled this handbag. It is very simple after learning a few key crochet stitches to make this.

I used crochet thread and the larger size glass seed beads that are commonly available at any Michael's or Walmart.

click image then click once again for magnification

I used a peyote stitch for the strap clasp which is simply a small tube that you slide up the straps to keep the bag closed.

here you may see the detail I applied to the wrist straps... two rows of clustered beads as an accent

and the completed bag as seen here. Just big enough for a night out Ladies!!! "n_n"

Victorian Era Handbags

2011-03-12T06:09:00.000-08:00

I was inspired by these Victorian Era handbags :

To create these beaded handbags, watch my new tutorial to learn how:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cz3NjzEBczo

Free Victorian Books

2011-01-26T13:56:00.000-08:00

These are from the illustrated bible, from 1872, it has over 300 engravings!
Download free from Google Books Here.

Just found this great dictionary free at this amazing site! Internet Archive, they have tons of free ancient books to download also, plus its free to have a membership.

Speaking of Victorian Nonsense, how about mourning etiquette

2011-01-12T22:20:00.000-08:00

Click on image then click again to zoom in

From 1882 Colliers Cyclopedia

19th century little girls mourning dress

2011-01-08T21:45:00.000-08:00

Here are some sketches I made of garments I found on line at http://19thcenturyartofmourning.com/19th_century_mourning_clothing.htm

The photo's on that site are poor quality so it is hard to make out fine details.

1880 Victorian Childrens style bodice

2011-01-07T04:16:00.000-08:00

This is a pattern for a bodice from 1880 for an adult from Katherine's Dress Site

Here is the picture she took of the original
http://www.koshka-the-cat.com/bustle_bodice.html

I altered the pattern to be considerably narrower at the hips removed the bustle fit and removed the tabs for a very simple hem line.

Here is my version of it as a children's style bodice [made to be worn without a bustle]

Collar and cuff detail.

Here are very rough sketches of the simple alterations I made to Koshka the Kat's bodice pattern to bring in the hips to remove the bustle fit.

Victorian Childrens style mourning suit

2011-01-07T04:09:00.000-08:00

Victorian cosmetics, homemade cosmetics & skincare

2011-01-05T18:26:00.000-08:00

Punch, 27 January 1894

The caption reads:

“O, Mummy dear, why did Papa say he was thinking of having you painted by Sir John Millais? I'm sure he couldn't do better than you do it Yourself. ”

“Ethel, dear, I think you had better go play in the Nursery with your little Brother!”

As far as cosmetics go there really wasn't much to choose from back then. You had face powder that was either talc or a starch and for rouge there was carmine [insect derived red pigment] or plant pigments such as beets or that from petals, that was added to salves or balms made from lard or tallow to use on lips and cheeks.

The eyeshadow [lead powder] or white pigmented face creams where still toxic & most considered they were only to be worn by actress's or prostitutes. As Queen Victoria was not fond of cosmetics that dutifully trickled down through her loyal subjects and plebes.

I've read some used burnt match sticks for eyeliner which is essentially charcoal.

links for research:
beautifulwithbrains.com
thevictoriangarden.co.za
the-cup-that-cheers.blogspot.com
fashion-era.com
erasofelegance.com
victorianpage.com

Speaking of skills devalued by mechanization, how about homemade cosmetics and skin care

I've been looking into making soap & skincare.

Here I have made some "handwax" for my dried up overworked hands. After I wash dishes and my hands are still warm I pick up the bar and rub it about a little then rub the rest into my hands. There's no drying alcohols like in liquid lotions and it stays on my skin keeping it soft longer.

ingredients: beeswax, shea butter, clarified butter, olive oil, and coconut oil {96 degree melt}

This is a very forgiving recipe so exact amounts are not necessarily important, the ingredients are listed according to how much was used, first listed was the largest amount, last listed was the smallest amount used, etc.

[Yes I used clarified butter, people use milk in soap so I figured why not use clarified butter in a lotion bar. Besides it does not go rancid like all natural oils/waxes.]

Searched for two weeks before I purchased my ingredients, found this seller on bonanza.com to have the freshest ingredients and the lowest prices. www.bonanza.com/booths/countrysoapshack

Here is the lotion bar "handwax" coming out of it's mold

I keep my handwax bar in an old Altoids tin.

My 'NotVaseline' recipe

1 3/4 cup cold pressed olive oil
1/4 c. unrefined peanut oil [natural source of Vit E for skin health]
1/2 c. beeswax
amber oil

I heated the beeswax and oils [not the amber oil] for about 10 minutes stirring. Warmed the amber after pouring my 'NotVaseline' into the jar I then added the amber oil and stirred for a minute to make sure it was well incorporated.

Using this just after a shower or bath keeps my skin velvety soft longer than lotion and I use less of this than lotion for a fraction of the price of the super moisturizing lotions I have bought.

It smells like a peanut and beeswax but after it absorbs into the skin you are left with the amber fragrance.

If you don't want peanut oil this recipe should work with just olive oil.

This recipe also serves well as a pomade or brilliantine for hair. I have very long hair and I do not like to use conditioner. I apply this lightly to the ends of my hair for softness and shine.

Victorian childrens mourning skirt with ruched apron overskirt

2011-01-05T17:36:00.000-08:00

I was inspired by these girls Victorian mourning dresses to make these skirts.

I used the same a line pattern just lengthening one skirt slightly longer than the next.

They can be worn separately or together and as underskirts as seen here with a ruched crepe overskirt-apron.

Preshrunk wool for skirt panels.

Preshrunk crepe used for ruched apron and skirt ruffles.

Here you can see I used a simple a line skirt pattern and just added 1 tier of ruffles to the hem for that "Victorian" effect.

I added additional faux seams to the shorter top skirt to make it appear to be a 7 gore skirt. You will have to forgive the cat hair! ;) lol

I made the over-skirt into an apron with ruching & simply left the zipper seam open all the way to the hem to turn it into an apron, and making the bias tape waist band longer to create the ties for the apron.

For a video tutorial for applying elastic to create ruching on a skirt check out: Evange's tutorial for a lolita/hime skirt

This is the simple pattern I used for both the overskirt and the underskirts, it doesn't even have darts. Its pieces 1 & 2. There is so much you can do with this pattern.

Make bloomers without a pattern

2011-01-05T16:25:00.000-08:00

Evange's no pattern bloomers "pattern" is easy and the bloomers are comfortable and create body to add fullness to your skirt.

It took me maybe 1 hour to make them.

I made one small alteration to Evange's tutorial.

I added ruffles at the knees as you can see here.

So instead of having just elastic casing at the knees I added another inch, made a 3/4 ish inch casing for narrow elastic and added that to make ruffles. See the end of post for details to do this alteration.

Just follow Evange's instructions until you get to the knee hem and add my alteration for easy decorative ruffles.

Aesthetes

2010-12-25T22:47:00.001-08:00

In the later part of the 19th century the Aesthetes would be inspired by the Pre-Raphaelites. Here is a cartoon from 1881 making fun of Aesthetes

For More information on Aesthetic dress go to www.fashion-era.com
Here is some information about Aesthetic dress from fashion-era.com:

"Aesthetic Dress Fashion History

Aesthetic dress was a protest against the contemporary fashion for bustles in various forms and restrictive corsets. In fashion history terms only a very small section of the community ever wore it initially, but it did spread to middle class intellectuals, to artistic and literary people. Aesthetic dress was made of wool or Liberty silk or velvet fabrics.
Aesthetic fashions were cut looser and was unstructured in the style of medieval or Renaissance garments with larger sleeves. The dress appeared loose compared with figure hugging fashion garments of the era. Loose waited corset free women were considered to have loose morals and it did not help that many of the Aesthetic women were thought slightly Bohemian and beyond the normal social conventions and morals of the time.
Above Left - Dress from a 1905 Liberty catalogue.
The typical fashionable aesthetic lady would have red flowing hair often henna enhanced, a pale face, green eyes and wore heelless shoes. This model of aestheticism was frequently ridiculed in Punch cartoons where the wearer might be shown with her hair brushed into her eyes. The idea of red hair itself was ridiculed as red hair was thought of as social assassination."

Lewis Carroll

2010-12-25T02:36:00.000-08:00

I have just finished Jenny Woolf's "The mystery of Lewis Carroll".

She is completely unbiased and presents all data accordingly. She also was fortunate in that she discovered his banking records that had been hidden away for over 100 years that disclosed much welcome information on our author.

I must say after hearing all the nonsense of his "hidden" perverseness and the like, it was refreshing to read this biography. I was pleased to discover that the accusations were not founded in any fact, and that all the children [but one who was never a friend of his] who befriended him had positive things to say about his friendship when interviewed by other biographers later in life.

It is clear after being taken through the facts that the hideous gossip about him was merely that, gossip.

I wholeheartedly agree with the author that the sexual overtones of any analysis of Carroll's work is merely shining a light upon the obsessions of the critics.

In addition to the ridiculous sex obsessed viewpoints of Freudian criticisms of Carroll, there is one analysis that I found absurd by Prof. Paul Schilder who in 1938 found "preponderant oral sadistic trends of cannibalistic character in Carroll's work", in addition to another "doctor", psychoanalyst John Skinner, who upon reading a letter Carroll had written to a young friend the was full of his trademark humor decides that the funny letter was, " full of rejection, with little friendliness in it's tone."

After reading about his schooling and the drab and dried up social atmosphere of Oxford/Christ Church it becomes clear to the reader that his relationships with children were a welcome oasis from his life as a mathematics lecturer.

That his oath of celibacy which ensured his position at the college was both a source of stress and financial stability for one who did not come from a family of entitlement.

After a thorough examination of his bank records one will discover his silent support of over 30 different charities yearly, mostly to aid women and children who were victims of abuse or to hunt down and prosecute men who abused children. In addition to his role as head of his huge family after the death of his beloved father he supported his 10 brothers and sisters in whatever capacity they might need, that was quite a feat, and in today's society would be nothing short of sainthood.

I also found touching his being torn between Oxford conservatism, & the unconventional-ism that colored his life. The expectations put upon him due to his vow and being a male in Victorian society were at constant odds with his treating women and children as equals and unashamedly being seen in public visiting with unchaperoned women and children.

Most of the gossip appears to originate with the other men at Oxford/Christ Church. One can only imagine the jealousy they felt when viewing the sensitive stammering professor constantly surrounded by women and children.

In addition to the disdain he received from his pupils, who were of the entitled upper-crust and not at all fond of someone stepping outside of their "proper" place in the Victorian caste system, he was under much duress due to his speech impediment that seemed to plague many members of his family that caused his daily public speaking to be horrific for him. Also he seemed to have a knack for climbing up and down the ladder socially without concern for the disapproval of his contemporaries.

I know the works of Lewis Carroll have influenced my life for the better and I am so glad to have found Jenny Woolf's book.

I have this to say to those who slander Carroll :

The "people" who populate this world we live in have a knack for taking something innocent and wonderful then strangling and cutting it into a perverted reflection of their own ugliness.

Overall I am so glad she wrote this, I read it in less than two days, I couldn't put it down.

PreRaphaelite Model Jane Morris photos

2010-12-18T02:48:00.000-08:00

Found at www.rossettiarchive.org

If you love Elizabeth Siddall you will also know Jane Morris as well. I found some amazing photographs of her.

I am going to make a pattern of this dress, will post soon. Photographs: Copyright: ©Victoria & Albert Picture Library

Rebels of the Victorian Age.... The Pre-Raphaelites

2010-12-17T23:46:00.000-08:00

Many do not know of the Pre-Raphaelites... a passionate artistic movement during the middle Victorian Era whose paintings still resonate with us today.

A characteristic of Pre-Raphaelites style with which they painted was to portray women & men in un-corseted bodies with free flowing hair and loosely draped robes and dresses that are reminiscent of the Greco-Roman era and medieval times. Portraying religious, historical, or common everyday moments in a romantic idealized manner.

Here is a slide show of this movements most notable paintings
I've included paintings by Elizabeth Siddal in the slideshow, her artwork was not as publicized as the men of this era.

photo of Elizabeth Siddal [model for Ophelia]

Regina Cordium

Rest In Peace Elizabeth,

you will remain in our hearts forever.

Gone

a poem by Elizabeth Siddall

To touch the glove upon her tender hand,
To watch the jewel sparkle in her ring,
Lifted my heart into a sudden song
As when the wild birds sing.
To touch her shadow on the sunny grass,
To break her pathway through the darkened wood,
Filled all my life with trembling and tears
And silence where I stood.
I watch the shadows gather round my heart,
I live to know that she is gone –
Gone gone for ever, like the tender dove
That left the Ark alone

www.Evangesews.com bloomers & lolita skirt tutorials

2010-12-17T01:50:00.000-08:00

Really great tutorials on lolita or period style clothing reproductions for the "modern" girl...

www.evangesews.com

Her bloomers tutorial:

Her tutorial for : a Sewing Tutorial: Lazy Lolita Skirt (DIY Hime Style)

Victorian Hairstyles & tutorial

2010-12-15T16:57:00.000-08:00

I actually, finally found a hair dressing tutorial from 1871, the instructions themselves are a bit complicated.

click to enlarge, or save to desktop by right clicking and select 'save as' whatever

Here are some Victorian era hair pieces:

children's hairstyles:

I made a collage of all that I have on hand for a visual reference.

Making Victorian era style photos or photos that look like daguerreotypes and tin types

2010-12-12T01:54:00.000-08:00

Do you have a digital photo you would like to give a tin type or daguerreotype finish to? You will need Photoshop for this, I am using CS3, these steps should work for nearly any version you may be using?

You will need a basic understanding of how to use Photoshop for this trick.

If the images aren't large enough click to enlarge. ;)

First make it black and white.

This will create severe shadows on your face, so use the healing brush tool or what have you to correct this before going further.

Layer duplicate or [ctrl + j] to create background layer duplicate.

Now add a layer mask. [Layer>Layer mask>Reveal all] to the new layer.

Make sure you select the upper layer instead of the mask and apply a Gaussian blur 4-7 pixels should do.

Your image should appear fuzzy like this.

Now click on the icon for the mask on the upper layer. Use a soft big brush and select black, paint over the areas of the image you would like to sharpen.

You will see your progress in the mask icon as you go.

To give more textural interest to your image go into brush library and try out the huge selection of faux & natural finish brushes to apply various shades of darker hues to create a really crusty tin type image like I did below. Create a new layer to apply your added special effects as you see in the finished portraits below.

the tiny arrow opens the brush library:

Completed black & white daguerreotype 'style' image

Or you could do a sepia tone version to really capture a moldering effect.

What is a daguerreotype and a tin type image

This is from memory.loc.gov

"The Process

The daguerreotype is a direct-positive process, creating a highly detailed image on a sheet of copper plated with a thin coat of silver without the use of a negative. The process required great care. The silver-plated copper plate had first to be cleaned and polished until the surface looked like a mirror. Next, the plate was sensitized in a closed box over iodine until it took on a yellow-rose appearance. The plate, held in a lightproof holder, was then transferred to the camera. After exposure to light, the plate was developed over hot mercury until an image appeared. To fix the image, the plate was immersed in a solution of sodium thiosulfate or salt and then toned with gold chloride.
Exposure times for the earliest daguerreotypes ranged from three to fifteen minutes, making the process nearly impractical for portraiture. Modifications to the sensitization process coupled with the improvement of photographic lenses soon reduced the exposure time to less than a minute.
Although daguerreotypes are unique images, they could be copied by redaguerreotyping the original. Copies were also produced by lithography or engraving. Portraits based upon daguerreotypes appeared in popular periodicals and in books."

and information about tintypes can be accessed here at www.rleggat.com

punk rock Victorian childrens ruffled skirt

2010-12-11T02:21:00.000-08:00

This little girls dress was my inspiration for this design.

punk rock version of the Victorian children's skirt

I have no idea what the fabric is. Some weird satin that I preshrunk, purposely, because I always PRESHRINK, and I like to be surprised by the fabric after washing it to see what happens to it.

I prefer the more intense textures of many dryclean only fabrics after machine washing them 0.o call me crazy. lol They are so unique.

Here are a few steps to illustrate adding ruffles to a simple a line skirt:

Adding ruffles to the skirt:

Here I have begun to pin the 1st layer of ruffles to the skirt 1/4 section at a time. I describe this in detail in my post here.

After you make your division marks on the skirt and the ruffles you will want to provide excess thread for gathering when sewing your basting stitches onto your ruffle fabric between every section. You don't want to make one long straight stitch for gathering ruffles, it will break and unravel all your ruffles. So smaller sections make it easier to gather ruffles with out thread breakage.

Here you can see I am gradually pulling the excess string I left when applying basting stitch, for those of you who have yet to make ruffles by hand patience is key! Go slow and gently, if you pull hard the thread may break and you will have to baste stitch again. ;)

Stitching on the ruffles after hand-basting the finished ruffles onto the skirt with white thread. I think ruffles are more flattering added at the hip line rather than just below the navel.

Trim details:

Added bias tape trim to cover where ruffles are stitched onto skirt and made bias tape trim with leftover fabric to make the bias tape trim fancier.

Waistband improv:

Here you can see I've stitched two pieces of single fold bias tape to make it wide enough for a waist band. You can just buy double fold bias tape for this, I didn't have it on hand and used this method instead.

Here you can see the finished side of my bias tape waist band and the under side. You will want to iron flat the edges that will be stitched together and then iron them back to their previously folded state after stitching together as you see here.

I am adding the bias tape waistband here. I finish off the waist band by leaving one side 2 inches longer than the other, fold half under and finish tab, and stitching in a hook and eye to fasten above the zipper.

Victorian Nonsense screensaver

2010-12-02T14:31:00.000-08:00

This is a background I made. I used Darwin for Victorian Nonsense because he was full of it! "n_n"

To save right click and select 'save image as' etc...

Turn a 1940's skirt pattern [a line] into a "Classic Lolita" style skirt

2010-11-27T22:09:00.000-08:00

You can use this mod on any style skirt. I used a typical a line skirt that was a 6 gore style pattern.

Here's the skirt pattern, just a 6 gore skirt. I made the length about 21-22", just above the knee, it gives the skirt a more Junior/childlike appeal that I love in Victorian children's clothes.

After you finish or find a skirt to alter here are the steps to make Victorian style gathers for skirt hem.

I wanted the fabric for the gathers to be 3 to 4 X's the circumference of the skirt.

After over locking the edges while stretching the fabric [a Lycra cotton blend] to create the curling finish I marked 1" away from both edges for the entire length where the basting stitch will go to create gathers.

Here you can see I use a very long hem, I like the extra weight, it gives the skirt nice movement.

Here you can see I've attached the middle mark of the trim that has been divided to the middle mark on the skirt. The illustration below describes this.

Above is a simple way to ensure your gathered trim matches up to your skirt. After the skirt was hemmed I matched up the division marks, pinned them, then gathered the divided sections, after that I would hand baste each gathered section to the matching section of the skirt.

I am using two basting needles to do both edges at once.

You can see the pins that mark the divided sections, I have gathered one section at a time.

Now I have used a basting stitch to secure the gathers to the skirt hem to sew later.

Here you can see the white thread I used for hand stitching the gathers to the skirt and the wide hem.

Here is a closeup of the hand basted gathers.

Here is the finished skirt. I used a super wide hem to add extra weight to the skirt, it gives the fabric a lovely movement the more weight it has.

Finished skirt with petticoat and bloomers.

"Victorian" style bloomers mod for pants

2010-11-21T03:53:00.000-08:00

I made a pair of bloomers from some pants of mine I had already made a while back. This mod will work with stretchy material [like the type I use here] or whatever lightweight fabric you may have.

Here are the steps I took:

I cut the pants off at 22" down from my waist and over locked the raw fabric edge at the knee. Since the fabric was stretchy I pulled it taught while applying a zig zag stitch and it makes the edge very curly as you can see here.

I marked all about the circumference of of the knee , inside out of course. I marked the pants inside every 1/4 of the way about & 3" from edge for elastic.

Here you can see how it appears after applying the elastic, make sure you pull the elastic and fabric tightly to achieve this.

Here is the finished pair of bloomers that were once wide leg pajama pants.

Make your own "Gothic Lolita/Kuro Lolita" inspired ruffled skirt

2010-11-19T16:49:00.000-08:00

I know true 'Loli's' wouldn't call my mod Lolita, it needs to be bell shaped with a pannier to be true Lolita I suppose. But it's lovely nonetheless. Let me know.

I recently saw this at fanplusfriend.com and had to redesign it and make a version for myself.

Here are the steps I took.

First I made an a line skirt

Here I have marked in my sketch how much shorter I made the skirt to make room for my sheer treatment at the hem. At the end this of post you can see this sheer trim in detail.

Then I measured from my waist line to where my hip bones were and marked that on the skirt all the way around to the back.

Here you can see I am adding a layer of 3 tiered ruffles I have made at the hip bone line. I will show how to make a layer of 3 tiered ruffles shortly.

The first step to make the layers is to cut out the panels [about 4x's the width of your skirt] and finish the edges. Here you can see I am applying a very narrow zigzag stitch to the edge of a soft sheer nylon fabric. Loosen the pressure on the foot and use the proper needle when working with this type of fabric it WILL matter, an 80/11 size needle will do.

I have measured and laid out the first two layers. If you want densely packed ruffles I usually measure the width of the layer nearly 4x's the width of the skirt. It is better to err on the side of caution and have far too much ruffle than less after all this trouble.

Here is the last top most layer. Finishing the edges of all the layers is the most time consuming part, unless you have a serger.

If you look closely you can see I did not finish the edge at top where the layers met.

Here you can see how they are layered prior to pinning.

You want to mark where the first layer falls so you can have a line to pin the second layer, you want it to hide just beneath the edge of the first layer of ruffles.

You can hand stitch or just do a wide straight stitch on your machine. Knot the ends leave enough length on thread to pull when you are finished stitching, use very good thread or the weight of the fabric will break the thread and you will unravel your ruffles.

A note about ruffles:
I find that a narrow zigzag finished edge lets the ruffle look smoother as opposed to a shirttail hem which lends to the ruffle having a very stiff appearance. Below you can see the first layer of ruffles has two tiers with a shirttail hem with the rest finished with a zigzag stitch.

Above: this photo illustrates where the layers are stitched, just beneath the edge of the layer above it. I will finish the edges with basting tape to cover up the threads. The white string is from my hand basting that I will remove now that I have sewn the ruffles on by hand.

I used three different types of black fabric to add interest, as you can see under a flash the different shade of black in 1 layer is obvious, if you are going to use your item in a photo shoot with flash photography this is something to consider during the design of your garment!

Personally I do not care if all my blacks match, I think it looks better to have some variety in the hues of black.

For the original skirt on fanplusfriends.com they use a very thin light cotton fabric/cotton broadcloth/muslin which provides the stiff fullness, but I prefer to use fabric which is softer and has a lot of weight to it, so it has a very fluid movement to the skirt as opposed to the stiffness of thin cotton fabric. It depends upon your tastes, the other layers of this skirt are a heavy synthetic rayon/woven fabric which I prefer for it's weight and bounce when moving about.

I have yet to add the waist band and zipper, I will update post as soon as I am finished with this item.

Here is a close up of the sheer panel with bias tape trim I added to the hem that I had shortened.

Thanks, R.

Here is the completed item after I finished the waist band. I added hem lace to the 2nd layers stitching.

Here you can see I've added my pleated under skirt instead of a proper pannier/petticoat with a pair of bloomers knee hi's and Victorian Junior Girls style boots.

Here the last tier of sheer fabric trim is lifted to illustrate the layers.

baby bear with cap for child to wear

2010-07-23T04:33:00.001-07:00

I made this for my lil niece, the bears hat comes off and can be worn by the lil child. I'm planning a boy design also. Maybe with little boats on the hat or stars. This version has crocheted black roses on it.

Knit Baby Caps

2010-05-29T03:33:00.000-07:00

Just came up with a cute little hat for newborns with leftover yarn I didn't want to waste.

Here the ear flap is folded up, you can see the inside of the hat:

Here the ear flap is down:

Here is the hat with ear flaps up from the front view:

Here with earflap's down from the side, sortof:
It looks kinda like something a Sherpa would wear.

finish these darn sleeves

2010-01-16T03:42:00.001-08:00

Here is the sleeve after the bias tape was sewn on. Looks so much better.

Sleeve prior to bias tape.

Amigurumi

2010-01-10T03:02:00.001-08:00

These are my latest pets for sale on ebay under seller name: knightlife999

x mas gifts

2010-01-05T00:43:00.001-08:00

Here's some of the gifts I made by hand for loved ones this past x mas.

some x mas gifts

2009-12-17T00:05:00.001-08:00

I crocheted all these cute lil creatures as x mas gifts in amigurumi style. They are so adorable.

Amigurumi gifts

2009-12-10T04:55:00.000-08:00

Here's one of the many gifts I've made by hand so far this Christmas.

2009-11-30T04:26:00.000-08:00

"Peekaboo" says Bumpiddy Doo!

During the Victorian Era it was common for girls and ladies to make things by hand as gifts, such as doilies, back splashes for vanities, etc. Recently I've discovered a Japanese style of crochet called Amigurumi. So I am designing all of my gifts in this style of crochet! Bumpiddy Doo is a gift I have just finished for my sister, it is a surprise so I will not post complete photos of him till after she has received him.

This is an illustration from the cover of 'Illustrated London News' 1876.

This is an anonymous illustration of a mother and child making gifts.

2009-11-21T07:50:00.000-08:00

Made this screen saver today.

2009-11-20T02:46:00.000-08:00

Best Victorian hairstyle's I've found so far.

fake daguerreotype

2009-11-15T23:29:00.000-08:00

This is a CDV/daguerreotype image transform I did recently for a photographer in the Netherlands.

Here is my portrait as a daguerreotype also.

2009-11-14T07:02:00.000-08:00

This is what the original photo looked like before I transformed it with my trickery.

Newer version of my moldering antique portrait, was going for that musty Carte de Vista look or fungus riddled cabinet photo.

1880 bustle bodice repro

2009-11-12T04:57:00.000-08:00

This is a shot of me making the pleats for the bodice hem. I used 100% cotton duct, basically black canvas I wanted the garment to be durable and washable.

The following is my adaptation of the 1880 bodice pattern I found at www.koshka-the-cat.com

Detail of buttons and buttonholes.

I decided to use pleats instead of tabs like the original.

Back panels.

The finished bodice with my beautiful kitty's fur all over.

Steampunk embroidery stuff "stitchfinger"

2009-11-09T04:51:00.000-08:00

An idea I came up with after picking up embroidery again recently. The project took me a few days, and it was quite painful at the end of the day. So I thought of these. Have yet to make them.

2009-11-09T00:30:00.001-08:00

www.koshka-the-cat.com

A website by an amazing seamstress. I am currently recreating this pattern

here.

I will post photos later.

2009-11-01T01:36:00.000-07:00

I found this wonderful book at the library. "Victorian Women's Fashion Cuts" selected and arranged by Carol Belanger Grafton 1993 Dover Publications

www.VictorianNonsense.com

2009-10-30T06:56:00.000-07:00

Step eight: Continue around the first two stitches [petals] to make the rest of the rose.

Step seven: Making more petals for bullion rose.

Step seven: Finish coil with a stitch where the coil ends.

Step six: Use needle to arrange coils as you tighten the thread.

2009-10-30T06:50:00.000-07:00

Step five: Stabilize twirled thread as you tug the last of the thread so it coils nicely.

Step four: Nearly finished with pulling thread through the twirled thread.

Step three: Stabilize thread twirled around needle with finger while pulling thread through.

Step two: twirl thread around needle 5 times.

Step one.

2009-10-28T21:13:00.001-07:00

Skirt hem border.

Hem design map.

Embroider design detail, I use the bullion rose [bullion knot] for the hem, not sure what to call the stitching that makes up the square? I just made it up as I went along.

Other sites of various productivity:

2009-10-27T21:36:00.000-07:00

rebeccabrooksart.blogspot.com/

watercolorartistlandscapepainter.blogspot.com

perditioncomic.com

2009-10-27T02:23:00.000-07:00

Step one: Lay out your pattern to be modified upon newspaper or craftpaper to make your new pattern.

Step two: Put important info on new pattern! Like darts, zipper placement, etc.

Step three: After making the adjustments needed cut it out.

Here are the front, back, and waistband for the victorian mod. skirt.

This is a shoddy sketch of the modern skirt pattern and the victorian modification I wanted to make. I hate drawing with a mouse.

2009-10-27T02:12:00.000-07:00

Step five: Make ruffles to add to the bottom of skirt. I needed to make two layers of ruffles. A 16" and a 12". Here is the 12". I used a nearly 1/8 " shirt tail hem for this layer of ruffles as they would be most visible.

Step six: Here I am using a zigzag stitch to attach the 16" ruffles first. As you can see I used two rows of straight stitching to make the ruffles, more strength so the thread wont break so easily as the fabric does have some weight to it.

This is what the 16" bottom layer of ruffles looks like after attaching to raw edge of skirt and removing the bottom row of stitches that gathered the ruffles.